Method of making slip-lasted shoes with reinforcing counter and stitched-in sock lining



Aug. 11, 1953 J. MELTZER 2,548,031

METHOD OF MAKING SLIP-LASTED suoss WITH REINFORCING COUNTER ANDSTITCHED-IN socx LINING 1 Filed Sept. 23, 1952 2 Sheets-Sheet 1INVENTOR. JACK MEL 7252 Aug.11,1953 J.MELTZER 2J@48J)81 METHOD OF MAKINGSLIP-LASTED SHOES WITH REINFORCING COUNTER AND STITCHED-IN socx LININGFiled Sept. 25, 1952 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 HVVENTUR. J26}: AiElJUZEXZPatented Aug. 11, 1953 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF MAKINGSLIP-.LASTED SHOES WITH REINFORCING COUNTER AND STITGHED-IN SOCK LINING7 Claims.

My present invention relates generally to shoes, and has particularreference to articles of footwear of the so-called slip-lasted type, andto certain procedural steps involved in making such articles.

It is a general object of the invention to provide a construction inwhich the advantages of a reinforcing counter, either in the heel regionor elsewhere, are attained in a shoe having a full length sock liningstitched into position around its entire periphery.

As is known, a stitched-in sock lining is highly desirable because it isnot susceptible to displacement and is devoid of edges which may curland thereby cause discomfort or which impair the attractiveness of shoeshaving openings at the toe or elsewhere. A rainforcing counter isdesirable because of its ability to lend staunchness and form-retainingqualities to the shoe, and to impart a stylish and attractive appearanceto it. A counter is of particular importance in the heel region of theshoe, but the invention is not re s ricted to the employment of areinforcement of this particular kind.

One of the features of the present invention resides in the fact thatthe dual benefits of a full length stitched-in sock lining and of areinforcement counter may be simultaneously achieved in a shoe in whichthe upper of the shoe is not necessarily provided with a lining. Infact, the upper may consist of separate and spaced vamp and quarterelements, if desired.

Another object of the invention is to provide these desirable results ina simplified manner and by a sequence of procedures which are relativelyeasy to perform, expeditious, and inexpensive. The method is in manyrespects an improvement over the procedure described in Moskowitz Patent2,371,703. The steps called for by the present invention are capable ofperformance by relatively unskilled hands, and the finished article offootwear is not only of stronger and more rugged Wear-resistantconstruction, but it has an unusually neat appearance, and a soft andcomforta'ble interior. The procedure is suitable for the manufacture ofa large varietyof shoes, slippers, sandals and similar items intendedfor either street wear or indoor use, and lends itself readily tovariations in style and to the employment of various ornamentalmaterials.

Several ways of achieving these general objects and advantages, and suchother objects and advantages as may hereinafter appear, areillustratively exemplified in the accompanying drawings in which Figure1 is a perspective view of an illustrative article of footwear which maybe produced by means of the present inventoin;

Figure 2 is a perspective view of the upper entering into theconstruction of the shoe shown in Figure 1;

Figure 3 is a perspective view of the sock lining by itself;

Figure 4 is a perspective view of a. countercovering element;

Figure 5 is a similar view showing a modified type of counter-coveringelement that might be employed. -35?! Figure 6 is a perspective view ofthe elements of Figures 3 and 4 joined together to form a preliminaryassembly;

Figure 7 is a fragmentary enlarged cross sectional view along the line lof Figure 6;

Figure 8 shows the preliminary assembly of Figure 6 partially joined tothe upper of Figure 2;

Figure 9 is a perspective view of the rear end of the assembly of Figure8, as viewed from underneath;

Figure 10 is an enlarged fragmentary cross sectional view along the line[0-10 of Figure 9;

Figure 11 is a view similar to Figure 9 with the sock lining and upperin a further stage of interconnection;

Figure 12 is a view similar to Figurell showing how a platform wrapperis added to the assembly of parts;

Figure 13 is a view similar to Figure 10, taken substantially along theline |3-l3 of Figure 12;

Figure 14 is a perspective view of a pre-molded flanged reinforcementcounter of known kind;

Figure 15 is a cross sectional view similar to Figures 10 and 13,showing the parts in the relationships they assume after the reinforcingcounter is in position and the sole structure of the shoe has beencompleted;

Figure 16 is a perspective view similar to Figure 6, illustrating amodification of the procedure at this stage; and,

Figure 17 is a cross sectional view substantially along the line l'l--|lof Figure 16.

In the shoe shown by way of illustration in Figure 1, the upper 20 is ofplain unornamented type, having a lower edge Which is continuousthroughout the entire periphery of the shoe. It will be understood,however, that this upper is purely illustrative, and that the procedureis not restricted to an unadorned continuous upper of this particularcharacter. The upper is preliminarily formed in any desired fashion, byprocedures which are well known per se, and of any desired material. Theupper 20 is shown by itself in Figure 2. Its lower edge is indicated at2|, its upper edge at 22. At the rear end a seam 23 is indicated.

'Ihe sock lining 24 of Figure 3 is of suitable size to extend for thefull length of the shoe. It is composed of any well known sock liningmaterial, and its initial dimensions are such as to allow for thestitching of its edges to the corresponding parts of the shoe.

Figure 4 is a perspective view of a countercovering element, of softyieldable fabric or equivalent material. In explaining the features andadvantages of the invention, I have chosento. 1llustrate an article offootwear in which there is a reinforcing counter in the heel region. The

counter-cover 25 of Figure 4 is therefore of a shape and size which issuitable for the covering of a reinforcing heel counter. The element 25may be composed of a single initial blank, or of more than one element.In its finished state it has a bottom edge 26, and a top edge 21 at therear which merges gradually along a substantially convex curvature withside edges 28 terminating at the forward ends of the bottom edge 26.Slightly to the rear of these ends, the bottom edge 26 is provided withnotches 29 which serve as convenient markers for a subsequent stitchingoperation, and which also serve to shape the ends of the element 25 inthe form of tabs or flaps 30. The notches 29 are shown in an exaggeratedmanner in the drawings, for the sake of clearness of illustration. Inactual'practice they are smaller and narrower, in proportion to thecounter cover 25 as a whole. Substantially the same result can beachieved by means of a counter-covering element of the character shownat 25' in Figure 5. In this case the bottom edge 26' turns downwardlynear its ends, thus defining tabs or flaps 30'. The purpose of theseends or tabs will be explained hereinafter.

As a first step in the practice of the improved procedure, thecounter-cover 25 of Figure 4 is secured to the edge of the sock lining24 by a line of stitches 3|, as best indicated in Figures 6 and 7. Itshould be observed that the stitches 3| extend only to the notches 29,i. e., they terminate short of the ends of the bottom edge 26 of thecounter cover. Thus they leave the ends or tabs 30 temporarily detachedfrom the sock lining 24. To facilitate the operation indicated, andbring the parts into proper positional relation, the sock lining- 24 maybe formed with notches or projections or other suitable markings (notshown) with which the notches 29 can be brought into alignment beforethe stitching begins. Where a counter cover of the type of Figure isemployed, the same procedure is followed, i. e., the stitches are causedto terminate short of the ends of the bottom edge 26, thus leaving theends 30 temporarily detached from the sock lining.

As a subsequent step in carrying out the procedure, the counter cover issecured along its side and top edges to the inside of the upper. This isindicated in Fig. 8. Here, too, to assure a proper relative positioningof the parts, the lower edge 2| of the upper may be provided withpositioning marks or projections (not shown). The securement of thecounter cover is achieved by a second line of stitches 32 which extendall the way to the bottom edge of the counter cover. The tabs or ends 30are thus secured to the upper at this time, but are still detached fromthe sock lining. In fact it is for the very purpose of permitting thestitches 32 to extend all the way to the bottom edge of the countercover that the tabs 30 were deliberately left temporarily detached fromthe sock lining 24 during the preliminary assembly of parts according toFigures 6 and 7.

It is at this stage of the procedure that the top edge 22 of the upper20 is subjected to the particular finishing treatment which the designof the shoe or article of footwear calls for. For example, a binding orcollar may be stitched to the top edge of the upper at this time. Inapplying it, it extends over and catches in the top edge of the countercover 25. Its securement to the forward regions of the top edge 22 isgreatly facilitated by the fact that the sock lining 24 is still in adetached relationship to the upper.

It is only at a subsequent stage of the procedure, best indicated inFigures 9 and 11, that the unattached edges of the sock lining 24 aresecured to the corresponding parts of the bottom edge 2| of the upper20. This is accomplished by a third line of stitches 33. It is to beobserved that these stitches extend not only around the entire forwardpart of the shoe (not shown in Figure 11) but also rearwardly to pointswhere they at least meet the first line of stitches 3|. For simplicityof illustration I have shown in Figure 11 how the first line of stitches3| terminate at the point designated 34, while the stitches 33 terminateat a point marked 35, which is approximately in the same region. Inactual practice the stitches 33 are caused to extend just slightlybeyond the point 34 in order to establish a firm interengagement of theparts. In either case, it is to be observed that the stitches 33 finallyengage with and catch in the temporarily detached ends or tabs 30. Thisis best illustrated by a comparison of Figures 9 and 11. In Figure 9,the sock lining 24 has been shown turned back to indicate that it isstill detached from the tabs or ends 33. In Figure 11, these ends havebeen caught in by the stitches 33.

The platform wrapper 38 is now attached to the upper. This is achievedby a line of stitching 39. Ihese stitches are so made that they avoidengagement with the bottom edge of the counter cover. To accomplish thisresult the counter cover is pushed aside, as indicated in Figure 12.

In the region of the shoe where the stitches 39 coincide or overlie thestitches 33, it is a possible alternative to employ only a single lineof stitches such as the stitches 33, to secure the sock lining to theupper and also to secure the platform wrapper thereto. In most cases,however, it is better practice to run the stitches 39 around the entireperiphery of the shoe, as a procedure separate from that which involvesthe stitching 33.

It is at this stage that the reinforcing counter is inserted into thepocket beneath the counter cover. The counter may be of any appropriateshape. In shape 14 I have illustrated a preformed or pre-molded counter36 having a flange 31 along its bottom edge. This is a counter of wellknown type, and is illustrative of the kind of reinforcing element thatcan be employed. It is not necessary, however, that the counter be ofthe flanged type shown. Of primary importance is the fact that thecounter be so chosen, as to configuration and dimensions, that it willfit snugly into the pocket designed for it. This pocket is obviouslybounded, on the inside, by the stitches 32.

The assembly of parts is now ready for application to a last, and thesole structure of the shoe may be completed as indicated in Figure 15. Aplatform 46 is applied, and the platform wrapper 38 is brought around tocover its edges. An outer sole 4| is then applied. These procedures arewell known per se, involving the use of adhesives and other expedients.The parts adjust themselves into a snugger relationship than that shownin Figure 15, but for the sake of simplicity of illustration, spaceshave been left (in Figure 15) between the sock lining 24 and theplatform 40, between the platform 40 and the outer sole 4|, etc. Inactual practice these spaces are either deliberately filled, or theparts compress themselves into a more compact relationship than thatshown. The sole structure, per se, forms no parts of the presentinvention.

A desirable modification of the procedure is illustrated in Figures 16and 17. In this case a sock lining 42 is secured to a counter-coveringelement 43 by a line of stitching 44, in exactly the same way as thecorresponding parts are secured together in Figure 6. However, beforethe securement of the counter cover to the upper, a reinforcing counter,in soft and pliable state, is adhesively bonded to the under side of thecounter cover 43. The underside is the convex side as shown in Figure16. The reinforcing element is designated 45. It consists of fabric orequivalent material impregnated with a resinous binder or othersubstance which has the ability to harden (usually with the aid of heatand pressure) into a relatively stiff and rigid condition.

The element 45 may be of any desired shape, and its top and side edgesmay terminate short of the corresponding top and side edges of theelement 43, or the two parts may be co-extensive in area. In Figures 16and 17 I have illustrated a reinforcing element 45 whose bottom edgeterminates at the bottom edge of the counter-covering element 43. Thisis not essential, either, and if desired the element 45 may have a partwhich defines an underlying flange similar to that shown at 31 in Figure14.

Where the element 45 is adhesively bonded only to the counter cover 43,as shown in Figures 16 and 17, the completion of the procedure followsthe steps herein described and illustrated in Figures 8-15, except thatthe separate insertion of a pre-formed counter becomes unnecessary.

A preferred procedure lies in bonding the reinforcing counter 45 to thecounter cover 43, as indicated in Figure 16, and also bonding it to theupper at the time the counter cover is secured to the upper by thestitches 32. This can be readily achieved by applying suitable adhesiveor other bonding substance to the outer or convex side of thereinforcement 45 at the time of the assembly of the parts as indicatedin Figure 8. This bonding of the reinforcement to the counter cover andalso to the upper involves only a slight modification in the procedurehereinbefore described, since it becomes necessary under thesecircumstances to secure the platform wrapper 38, at least in the partalongside the bottom edge of the counter cover, prior to the applicationof the stitches 32. The best way to achieve this result is to secure theplatform wrapper 38 to the upper in a preliminary step.

Even where the reinforcement 45 is not to be adhesively bonded to theupper, it may under certain circumstances be desirable to secure theplatform wrapper to the upper in a preliminary step, i. e., prior to thestitching of the counter cover to the upper along the line of stitches32 (Figure 8).

While I have illustrated the procedure as it applies to a shoe in whichthe reinforcing counter is in the heel region, it will be understoodthat the process may be carried out in connection with reinforcingcounters in other regions of the shoe as well. In each case, the countercover will have a configuration corresponding to the reinforcment to beemployed and to the region of the shoe in which the stiffening is to beachieved.

In general it will be understood that many of the details hereinillustrated and described are merely illustrative, and that deviationsfrom these details may be made in a number of respects,

by those skilled in the art, without necessarily departing from thespirit and scope of the invention as expressed in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claimas new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In the art of making a slip-lasted article of footwear having areinforcing counter and provided with a full-length stitched-in socklining, the sequence of steps which comprises securing the bottom edgeof a counter cover to an edge part of a full-length sock lining by afirst line of stitches terminating short of the ends of said bottom edgeand thus leaving said ends temporarily detached from the sock lining,thereafter securing the counter cover along its side and top edges tothe inside of an upper by a second line of stitches extending all theway to said bottom edge of the counter cover, and thereafter securringthe unattached edges of the sock lining to the corresponding parts ofthe bottom edge of the upper by a third line of stitches which extend atleast to said first line of stitches so as to catch in said temporarilydetached ends.

2. In a procedure as set forth in claim 1, the additional steps whichcomprise inserting a reinforcing counter into the pocket beneath saidcounter cover, and finally applying the assembly to a last andcompleting the sole structure of the article.

3. In a procedure as set forth in claim 1, the additional steps whichcomprise securing a platform wrapper to the bottom edge of the upper bystitches which avoid engagement with the bottom edge of the countercover, inserting a reinforcing counter into the pocket beneath saidcounter cover, and finally placing the assembly on a last and completingthe sole structure by steps which include application of a platform andcovering its edges with said platform wrapper.

4. In a procedure as set forth in claim 1, the additional steps whichcomprise securing a platform wrapper to the bottom edge of the upper bystitches which avoid engagement with the bottom edge of the countercover, the securement of said wrapper to said upper, at least in thepart alongside said bottom edge of the counter cover, being performedprior to the securement of the counter cover to the upper by said secondline of stitches.

5. In a procedure as set forth in claim 1, the additional step whichcomprises a finishing treatment along the top edge of the upper, saidstep being performed after the application of said second line ofstitches but before the application of the third.

6. In a procedure as set forth in claim 1, the additional step whichcomprises adhesively bonding a reinforcing counter to the under side ofsaid counter cover, said step being performed prior to the securement ofthe counter cover to the upper by said second line of stitches.

7. In a procedure as set forth in claim 1, the additional steps whichcomprise adhesively bonding a, reinforcing counter to the under side ofsaid counter cover prior to the securement of the counter cover to theupper by said second line of stitches, and also adhesively bonding saidcounter to the upper itself at the time of application of said secondline of stitches.

JACK MELTZER.

No references cited.

